The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established vineyard. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump mauve berries on a rambling allotment situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above Bristol downtown.
"I've seen individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in private yards and allotments across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district area and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from construction by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the president.
Unknown Eastern European Variety
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the smell of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to harvest white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on